Hayes and Horowitz: Pages 25 - 34

Lawless: Chapters 1 - 4

Pasquale: Pages 31 - 54

Goals


In the first lab, you will become acquainted with a set of standard tools that are used for building and testing electronic circuits.  These include:

  1. Electronics breadboard (or protoboard)

In addition, you will be using a variety of test leads and coaxial cables to make connections between test devices and the circuit you are working on.

Electronics vs Physics Labs

In most of the instructional lab courses on physics, the focus has (broadly) been using evidence to make conclusions about physical systems. The electronics course has a different goal: for you to learn enough about circuit design and functionality to start to be able to understand and design circuits in service of doing experimental physics. As such, the structure of the course will be markedly different that what you've seen before.

  • Labs are numerous and hands-on Due to the overhead needed to get to building functional circuits, there will be 16 lab periods throughout the quarter. The first labs in particular will have more guided exercises to help you get a solid foundation in circuit behavior and how to use the test & measurement equipment.
  • Lab writups will be minimal As the focus is on building, testing, and designing circuits, you aren't expected to write extensive reports. What you are asked to submit is a short document typically covering key observations.
  • Uncertainty analysis has no place here While it is certainly possible to perform uncertainty analysis on circuit behavior, it is unlikely to be helpful for this course. The issues you encounter are usually either enormous (improper connections or incorrect components for example) or very subtle (capacitive behavior in diodes or bandwidth limitations on test instruments) that they are unlikely to be explained by analyzing uncertainties.
  • Failure is always an option It will not be uncommon to observe a circuit malfunction because you haven't built it correctly, or because you've made mistakes (or unwarranted assumptions) involving the test & measurement equipment. This still happens to experienced designers, and as you get more experienced you'll be able to troubleshoot problems more quickly.
Pros at work

  • Troubleshooting is an integral part of design Since things may not work the first time, you'll have to figure out both why they aren't behaving as expected and how to fix them. Some general guidelines can be found here.
    • Before you ask your TA for help, you should be able to provide some more specific information than “It isn't working.”
  • Predictions are important As a corollary to the previous point, you need to know what a circuit is supposed to do to figure out if it isn't doing it. Sometimes you can make very specific predictions (e.g. “The amplitude should be cut in half when we increase the frequency to 39 kHz”) and other times you might have broader predictions (e.g. “I should see the voltage change when I turn on the function generator”), and when you're really struggling to figure out things you might fall back to extremely basic things (e.g. “It should behave differently when I turn the power off” or “touching a resistor shouldn't do anything”).

Lab Submission

For each lab, a template containing guiding questions will be provided to you.  You should also keep a lab notebook as a way of recording what you do and why, but it will not be assessed by your TA.

Questions may appear in the webpage that are not reflected in the template.  You don't have to document anything related to said questions, but they are there to guide you in thinking about electronics in a more expert fashion.  The hope is by the end of the course you'll start asking yourself such guiding questions without prompting, but until then such questions will provide you with support.

On Wiki Formatting

Since a good portion of this lab will feature guided activities, we've set up a system to help differentiate information from instructions from rhetorical questions. Information and general background has no special formatting

Rounded grey boxes are used to denote instructions: What you need to physically do as you proceed through the lab.

Text that's offset like this is used to indicate points to test or consider. Not all such instructions need to be recorded in your report, but you should be able to answer them as you go through the lab. They will help you gauge how much you're absorbing the content of the class.
Sometimes there are clickable notes in bold text

These notes typically:

  • Instructions on how to do something specific that not everyone will need,
  • Longer derivations of mathematical terms for the curious, or
  • Bits of supplementary information/trivia/history that aren't strictly necessary.

Some electronics jargon will have clickable or hoverable links to explain new terms more fully

Exploring the basic setup


Throughout the semester, we will be wiring circuits on a standard electronics breadboard or protoboard.  In addition, we will typically be using the regulated power supply to provide a DC voltage for our circuits. In this section, you will use the digital multimeter (or DMM) to investigate the breadboard and the power supply.

Your digital multimeter, with minigrabber leads. You will need to turn the knob to the yellow $\Omega$ symbol to measure resistance.

Exploring the breadboard.  

A

breadboard

Breadboard

A Breadboard is, in general, a surface designed to have circuits built on it.

The name originates from around the 1920s, when amateur radio enthusiasts would literally use a wooden cutting board meant for bread as a platform to build circuits on.

Nowadays it generally describes specialty prototyping boards that have rows of metal strips with spring-leaf clips below a plastic housing with evenly spaced holes.

 

like the one we'll use in this course is shown below.  Explore the interconnections between various points on the breadboard using your DMM in resistance mode (Ω).  A low reading shows an electrical connection while a very large reading or overload (OL) message indicates that there is no connection.  Note that the leads on the DMM do not fit into the breadboard holes; you will need to use jumper wires from your kit to connect the meter to the breadboard.

Using your multimeter, explore the connectivity of the breadboard. You'll be using it throughout the entire course, so taking some time now to really understand its layout can help save you time later when you're building circuits.

Make sure that you understand how the contact points are connected, paying particular attention to the vertical running holes on the sides of each board segment and to the horizontal running holes at the top of the board. These points are often used as a

power bus

Bus

A bus is something used to transmit signals or powering voltages over long distances. In this class we'll use the later definition more frequently, as often we'll want to connect multiple components to the same voltage (commonly +5V or 0V) without turning everything into a mess of wires.

 

to bring power and ground close to your components.  The report template has an editable breadboard schematic for you to annotate.

A photo of the breadboard you have for this course.  Note that this has six identical modules on the lower portion. A schematic of one of the six modules on the main breadboard.  Click on the image for a larger version to annotate or download.

Exploring the power supply

The triple DC power supplies used in this lab (shown below) can each produce two independent variable DC voltages (with maximum voltage and maximum current settings) as well as a constant 5 V output. When using the variable supplies, they will typically be used as constant voltage sources and the currents drawn will usually be on the order of mA. Given that the supplies are capable of supplying 3 A of current, it is a good idea to set the current limit to approximately 0.5 A (1/6 of the total current range) or less; you can do this by turning the current knob fully counter-clockwise and then adjusting it clockwise by about 3 or 4 small gradations.

Our benchtop power supplies. Note that the knobs and indicator lights are mirrored from left to right channels.
What if I want more precision?

To set a precise limit, you can short the terminals with a wire while adjusting the current limit knob. Note that this is a terrible idea if you are working with an unknown device! Always check the manual unless you are keen on voiding warranties or starting fires.

It is important to note that the power supply is floating supply; a setting of 5 V only tells us that the potential difference between the two supply terminals is 5 V. It says nothing about how either potential compares to ground (0 V). In order to set one of the terminals to ground, you must connect that terminal (and that terminal alone) to ground (green GND label) using a banana cable or some other type of connector.

Configure your power supply such that there is a 3 V difference between the red and black terminals, and set up a multimeter to verify this. Then, use a cable to connect the black terminal to the green one (ground) and use the multimeter to measure the differences across the terminals as well as the difference between ground and the other two terminals. Finally, connect the red terminal to ground and repeat.

Did the connection to ground change the potential difference between the terminals?
How do I connect wires to the terminals?
To connect the power supply to the breadboard, unscrew one of the banana jack connectors at the top of the board. When re-tightening the connector, make sure that only exposed metal is in the hole. Don't tighten the connector on the insulation; even if it works some of the time it will cause intermittent problems.

Your first circuit


During the first few weeks of the course, we will cover voltage divider circuits extensively.  In this lab, we are asking you to build a simple voltage divider circuit to gain experience with assembling circuits on the breadboard.  Consider the circuit shown in Fig. 1.

Predict whether the absolute value of $V_{out}$ will be greater than, less than, or equal to the voltage of the power supply, +3 V.  Write your prediction in your report, and briefly explain. 

On Predictions

Making predictions is more important when working with electronics than typical labs.  You can't see what's happening in circuits directly, so if you don't have some expectations for how something should behave it is hard to tell if it is doing what it is supposed to or if there is a problem.  Sometimes predictions can be as simple as “If I disconnect the input I should see 0V at the output,” or “If I wiggle a cable nothing should change.”  These basic low-level predictions are at the heart of troubleshooting circuits, which you will inevitably need to do during this course.

Figure 1: A basic voltage divider circuit.
The circuit shown in a traditional format from PHYS 132/142 courses. Note that the open white circles indicate points that are being measured across. The same circuit depicted in a compact notation. $V_{out}$ is still measured with respect to ground, and the more negative terminal of the power supply is also connected to ground.
Why 22k instead of 20k?

On Building Circuits Well

Circuit diagrams are a different kind of thing than free-body diagrams or field diagrams or ray diagrams or even engineering blueprints. The diagram only concerns itself with the electrical topology, i.e. which parts of circuit elements are electrically connected to other elements. The circuit elements themselves are also abstract; even something as simple as a resistor can have multiple representations, none of which look like the part itself (as shown below). The parts themselves even come in a variety of physical packages. Let's think a moment about how we can go about building circuits in a somewhat systematic way.

Two symbols and one photo of a 1 k$\Omega$ resistor. The left symbol is more common in US and physics contexts, the box symbol is more prevalent in the EU and engineering contexts.

Looking at our diagram in figure 1, we can first note that there are only 2 components and a power supply needed. The diagram on the right also makes it clear that there are only three junctions(nodes) in the circuit

  • 3V to one side of the 22k resistor
  • 0V to one side of the 10k resistor
  • The other sides of the resistors to each other

We're going to use a hybrid diagram to show you how you would conventionally go about building the circuit. This isn't something you'll likely see in the wild, it's just a tool for starting out.

Connecting Power

In the vast majority of circuits, you'll have some voltage that's used to power things. In our case, it will be +3V from the power supply. To start you'll want to use a cable to connect the positive side of the power supply to one of the jacks at the top of the board. Then, using the wire connected to the jack, make the following connections:

  • Connect the wire to one of the bus strips at the top of the breadboard
  • Use a wire to connect the horizontal bus strip to one of the vertical ones
  • Use one more wire to jumper over from the bus strip to the body of the breadboard
The first step of making your circuit. Note that all new connections/parts will be shown in purple.

Next, connect a resistor between two separate rows on the breadboard. You'll need to bend the metal legs to make it fit where you want it.

Inserting the 22 k$\Omega$ resistor in the breadboard. A very common mistake is to have one end above or below the row you want.

Third, insert the 10 k$\Omega$ resistor with one lead in the same row as the 22k and the other in a different row.

Placing the 10k resistor. Again, make sure the rows line up right.

Fourth, we'll wire up a connection to ground to complete the circuit.

Placing the 10k resistor. Again, make sure the rows line up right.

Lastly, we'll insert a pair of wires to grab with the multimeter or oscilloscope.

Wires added for measurement purposes. Note that they only have one connection, electrically they might as well not be there.

You're now just about ready to connect your meter, turn on the power supply, and start measuring.

Circuit Conventions

There are some conventions to how circuits tend to be drawn that aren't really explained in introductory texts. When possible, designs tend to have powering voltages arranged from top to bottom (i.e. ground connections or negative voltages go at the bottom of the diagram) and signals propagate from left to right. It's sort of similar to how many maps have north towards the top and east to the right. It makes it easier to orient yourself when looking at a new map, and similarly these conventions make it easier to interpret schematics.

Implemented Example

The photo below shows examples of how you could've gone about building the same circuit, with decreasing levels of cursedness as you go from left to right.

Four examples of the same circuit. All are topologically identical, but the building style on the right (utilizing the power rails, laying out parts along clear & straight lines, etc.) is preferable for working on larger projects.

Connecting to the voltage divider circuit.

Turn on your power supply and check your prediction by reading out the voltage on your multimeter.

Be sure to record what you measured and reconcile your observations with your prediction.

Adjust the voltage of your power supply throughout the range of values available to you, and observe the effect on the circuit's output $V_{out}$

Does the voltage divider behave the same way (i.e. divide voltage by the same fraction) as the voltage varies?

Leave your circuit built, you'll be coming back to it later.

Part 2: Using the Oscilloscopes


Introductory Tutorial: Oscilloscope Skills

To prepare you for later experiments in this course, we have designed a set of exercises to help you familiarize yourself with the capabilities of our oscilloscopes. Some of you have only briefly used 'scopes in your first year lab courses, while others may already be adept with them due to research experience. You should learn something either way, as the capabilities of scopes are truly impressive.

Hey, I know how to use a scope already! I did this in 211! Great! We'd still encourage you to go through the activities here as a refresher; as you may learn something useful you didn't know was even a feature of a scope. You're also going to hand in a characterization of four unknown waveforms for this, so if nothing else you can skip ahead to those parts.

Exercise 0: Why an oscilloscope?


Before we get too far into how to use a scope, we should mention why we use them in the first place. After all, doesn't a multimeter measure voltage too? The answer, in short, is time. Multimeters are useful for measuring static quantities that change slowly, but if the phenomena we care about takes place in seconds or less it just can't keep up. Not to mention, even if it could update quickly enough you'd never be able to record the values to interpret what you were seeing. An oscilloscope solves both these problems by being able to capture a snapshot of changes over a timescale of our choosing.

Anatomy of an oscilloscope

While it may look rather like a largish electronic calculator that would be insanely complicated to operate with about a hundred tiny buttons and a 4.5“ wide screen, Don't Panic. Controls are put into reasonable groupings, and there is quite a bit of feedback given on the screen once you know how to look for it. As you work through these exercises, we'll introduce both the controls and the location of relevant feedback on the screen.

The front panel of our oscilloscopes. Get used to seeing it, we'll be using it a lot today.

Exercise 1: Learning the controls


Getting started

The softkeys are the context-sensitive buttons just to the right of the screen. The Default Setup is usually towards the top-right corner of Tektronix instruments, but it varies from model to model.
  • Start up the scope, then either wait for the time & date setup screen to pass or press one of the bottom 3 softkeys to get to the main screen
  • Press the Default Setup button that's around the top right side of the scope.

Right now you should be seeing a yellow line in the middle of the screen with a bit of fluctuation to it. That's perfectly normal and the noise is probably some sort of 60 Hz signal that is picked up from power lines in the room.

  • Press the yellow 1 button to select the first input channel
  • Press it a second time to toggle the channel display off
  • Press it a third time to toggle the display back on

As you do this, look at the left edge and bottom left corner of the screen. When the channel is turned on, the bottom part of the screen will display both the channel name and what the voltage scale is. In addition, a little yellow arrow indicates where the baseline of the signal is. (A blue arrow would indicate the baseline for channel 2).

  • Turn the vertical position knob and watch the bottom part of the screen
The feedback text denoting the vertical offset is highlighted in pink

When you're turning the position knob, you can see that it shifts where the signal is displayed on the screen. This doesn't affect the values that you're measuring, but if you are trying to compare things and forget that you've shifted something then it can cause issues. Not only does it tell you what the offset is, it does so in both terms of a voltage and a number of divisions. This can be handy if you want to set a particular horizontal line on the screen as a reference point when you're looking at a signal.

  • Turn the position knob just far enough that the signal can no longer be seen
The baseline of the trace is offscreen, denoted by the arrow in the top-left corner highlighted in pink.

Now, you'll see on the left-hand edge that instead of indicating a position, there will be a 1 with an arrow pointing down or up, depending on which way you shifted the signal.

  • Change the vertical position to get your signal back on the screen, and note the number of divisions on the offset.
  • Change the vertical scale up or down
  • Tweak the vertical position just a bit to see what the new offset is
Our signal's back on the screen! Huzzah!

When you change the zoom level on a channel, the number of divisions that it is offset remains the same. So, if you were on a 1V scale with 1 division of offset and change to a 5V scale, you now have a 5V offset.

Attenuation settings

For a whole host of reasons that we won't get in to, there is often a good reason to use a cable that attenuates (reduces) the signal reading by a factor of 10 before it gets to the oscilloscope. This makes it the default assumption that you're using such a cable when you press Default Setup. However, when we're not doing that, we'll need to change one setting to properly read out voltages.

  • Press the 1 button to bring up the channel 1 settings
  • Press the fourth softkey to change the Probe 10X Voltage settings
  • Press the middle softkey to change the Attenuation
  • Use the multipurpose knob to set the attenuation to 1X

You'll need to do this any time you press the Default Setup button, unless you don't mind all your voltages being off by a factor of 10.

Looking at a signal

That's enough playing with the position of the signal, let's actually look at something. We'll use a function generator to start off with, since 'scopes are quite good at measuring periodic signals. We'll start with our faithful companion of periodic signals, the sine wave.

  • Use a BNC cable to connect the first output channel of your function generator to the first input channel of your oscilloscope
  • Turn the function generator on, and wait a bit for it to finish starting up
  • Turn the function generator output on by pressing the Output1 button. It should light up green when you do this.
  • Press the Default Setup button to restore your scope settings to a baseline state
    • Remember to change the Attenuation settings afterwards!

At this point, you should see something like the following on your scope:

The default state of the scope and function generator when both are on. Note that the Output1 button on the function generator is lit up

There are a few things that have changed, even though you can't see the whole signal yet.

  • The trigger frequency detection has kicked in, and shows that you likely have a 1 kHz signal input.
    • See the pink highlight on the image of the scope
  • The triggering system is active, as indicating by the Trig`d in green in the top center of the screen.
    • See the orange highlight on the image of the scope

The frequency estimation acts as a nice sanity check sometimes, but may not be the best way of reading out an unknown signal. More important is the fact that the scope is now properly triggering.

Why is triggering needed?

One thing that becomes apparent after using a scope for a bit is that it can't continuously show you what your signal is doing. It takes a bit of time for it to gather together data points and to display them. You wouldn't want to just have the screen update as fast as the machine can go either, since if it was updating at a different rate than your signal you wouldn't be able to see anything very clearly. We'll explore this in a bit.

Looking around

Now its time to get a better look at out signal. Thanks to the function generator, we already know what we should expect: a 1kHz sine wave that has a 5V difference between the peaks.

  • Turn the Vertical Scale knob counter-clockwise to zoom out so that you can see the whole waveform. It should work well at a 1V scale.
  • Adjust the horizontal scale to zoom in and out on the waveform
The same setup with the trace scaled to be visible. Note that the scale in the bottom-left says 10V; I forgot to reset the attenuation settings before taking the picture.
Something weird happened when I zoomed out too far?!?

If you zoom out to a 250 ms per division time base, you may see something quite unexpected: a sine wave. This is due to a phenomena called aliasing. Simply put, if a signal is getting sampled at a rate lower than its frequency, you can get something that appears to be a lower frequency signal. There's a whole theory in signal processing called the Nyquist Shannon sampling theorem that goes into this, but a rule of thumb is that you need to sample a signal at at least twice its frequency to get a reliable measurement.

Getting data

You'll eventually want to actually get some numbers out of the scope, rather than just looking at the squiggly lines.

  • Count the number of vertical divisions that the sine wave spans. A division is the space between two of the dotted lines; each dot in the vertical lines is 20% of a division.
    • If you're a factor of 10 high, go check the probe attenuation like we showed you how to do earlier
  • Count the number of horizontal divisions in one period. The spacing is given in seconds the bottom center of the scope.

This is how all measurements on oscilloscopes were made in ye olde days. Sure, you might use a ruler or means of magnifying the image, but for a good few decades that was it. With a digital scope, we've got some additional options that can make life easier.

Cursors

Writing on the face of a scope is a good way to invoke the wrath of its owner, but we can do one better. The Cursor button will let us pick vertical or horizontal lines that we can draw across the screen and read out values with 50% less squinting.

The basic cursor menu. The location of the cursor button is outlined in pink, while the multipurpose knob is outlined in orange.
  • Press the Cursor button, on the top row of buttons.
  • Use the top softkey to change the Type to Amplitude.
  • Use the multipurpose knob to move one cursor to the top of the sine wave.
  • Select the other cursor by pressing the bottom softkey.
  • Use the multipurpose knob to move the other cursor to the bottom of the sine wave.

Your screen should look something like the following:

The difference between the cursor positions is shown on the middle-right of the screen.

All that being done, you'll probably have something that's around a 5 volt difference. You'll also probably notice that the cursors only move one pixel at a time, so the readout is quantized. Long story short, that quantization factor is 4% of the voltage division you have selected.

  • Push the top softkey again to change the cursors to Time.
  • Move the first cursor to a peak of the sine wave.
  • Push the bottom softkey to select the second cursor.
  • Move the second cursor to the next peak of the sine wave.
Cursors being used for a time measurement

From here, you'll notice that there are some additional features to the time cursors. Not only do you get a readout of the time since triggering for each cursor, you get the voltage at that point as well as the frequency and period associated with the interval. Neat!

Measurements

Another option we have is to use some of the scope's built in measurement features. This can be handy when there are multiple things you need to keep track of across both signals and the cursors won't cut it.

  • Press the Measure button in the top middle row of the controls.
The measurement controls, with the button outlined in pink.

The right-hand side of the screen should now have options for measurement gating, the two input channels, the Math channel, and a Snapshot option.

  • Press the second softkey to select Ch1
  • Use the multipurpose knob to toggle on the Period measurement.
The scope with period and frequency measurements turned on. The period measurement it highlighted in pink.

There should now be a box in the lower-left side of the screen showing you the period of your signal.

  • Rotate the multipurpose knob and turn on the Frequency option

You can turn measurements off by toggling them again. These scopes can show up to 6 automatic measurements at once.

  • Use some of the other free slots to measure the Peak-Peak voltage, the Minimum voltage, and the Maximum voltage.

You might notice some more fluctuation going on here than you had with the cursors. That's because the scope is continuously calculating values based off of the current set of data it has gathered. The frequency in particular seems susceptible to wandering like this. Thankfully, the scope has a handy tool that helps us smooth out these fluctuations: the Averaging option.

Multiple measurements simultaneously selected for our signal.

Averaging

Averaging is just what it says on the tin: It will collect data from multiple triggering events and average out the readings. For something with a well-defined period, this is amazing for eliminating random noise. Let's check it out.

  • Press the Acquire button in the middle of the Horizontal control group
  • Select the Average option
  • Press Acquire again to toggle the menu off
The Oscilloscope's Acquire menu. The button is in the middle of the horizontal control knobs, highlighted in pink.

Even averaging only 16 times should be enough to get a rock solid reading on the measured values here. In fact, the scope manufacturer essentially expects that you'll use averaging when making measurements. To go back to normal:

  • Select the Sample option

The middle choice (Peak Detection) is something that is used for hunting noise or fast events, we'll get to its uses later. You'll also notice that you can toggle the number of waveforms averaged from 4 to 128, with the downside being that you'll have to wait a while for things to settle for high averaging values

  • Turn the cursors off before you continue

Triggering

We only mentioned triggering earlier, but its time to go back to it again since it will be the cause of many of your scope woes. The problem is that the scope gathers data too quickly to be able to display it continuously on a screen. One way of dealing with this might be to set a refresh rate (e.g. 50 times a second), but that would become a headache if you were even slightly off from the frequency you wanted to look at. Instead, what we do is specify when to gather data. We do this by selecting a voltage (positive or negative) and a slope (again, positive or negative). Modern digital scopes are able to buffer data continuously, so they can effectively show you what happened before the trigger event! On the other hand, analog scopes could only start drawing after the trigger and thus started on the far left side of the screen instead of the center. Hopefully it will start making sense as we play with the controls

Trigger controls

The trigger controls on our scope are grouped together on the right-hand side, consisting of a knob and two buttons. Well, that's not quite true. The Run/Stop and Single buttons on the top-right corner of the scope are somewhat related.

  • Toggle the Run/Stop button a few times and observe what changes
The scope toggled down to stop. The control button is in the upper-right corner and turns red when the scope is stopped. Note that the triggering text now reads Stop in red, shown in the orange highlight.

The most obvious thing should be that the waveform stops changing. You'll also see that the indicator in the top center of the screen will change to red text reading Stop. At some point in your career you may very well spend time debugging things only to discover that the problem was you stopping the scope display.

  • Press the Single button once

This should get the scope to gather a single trigger event and then stop, with the text Acq Complete in the top center of the screen.

This isn't a great example of how this would normally go, so let's change our setup.

  • Change the horizontal scale to 100 ms
  • Press the Single button and watch the trigger status text at the top of the screen

You should see the scope change to Armed in yellow for a moment, followed by Trig`d in green, and then Acq Complete in red again. Since you're asking for one second of data, it takes a moment for it to be gathered in this case. This is the sort of thing that is most useful for either very slow periodic events or single shot events.

  • Press the Run/Stop button to go back to the regular operating mode.
  • Change the Horizontal scale back to 500$\mu$s

Now let's play with the triggering itself a bit.

  • Turn the Level knob on the far right side of the scope controls and observe what happens to the waveform
  • Look at how the indicator arrow on the right side of the screen moves as you change the knob
  • Look at how the triggering display in the bottom right level changes as you change the knob

The place the scope centers your signal should shift as you move the trigger level. If you look at the center of the screen, the voltage of the sine wave should match your triggering voltage as you shift things about. There's a caveat here…

  • Turn the Level knob until it is above/below the waveform
  • Turn it back and forth a few times to overlap or miss the waveform, watching the triggering indicator in the top center of the screen

You'll see that when you first move off the waveform, the status will change to Ready before switching to Auto and your screen turning into wiggly soup. This is a feature, not a bug! The idea is that if you don't have your triggering set up to work for your signal, you might still want to see something to get an idea of what you're looking at. Hence, the screen will be snapshoting your waveform at intervals that won't line up with its period. The specific rate isn't specified in the manual, and depends on what your timescale setting it. Enough of that for now; I'm getting dizzy.

  • Adjust the trigger level to 0V by watching the readout in the bottom-right corner of the screen as you turn the knob.

Now that we're back to a know state, let's mess with some of the other options.

  • Press the Triger Menu Button, just above the knob
  • Toggle the Slope option a few times using the multipurpose knob and see what happens

Unless you've done something quite strange, your sine wave should be centered on a point where it is at 0V and decreasing. The little indicator in the corner will also flip directions.

  • Toggle back to a Rising Slope
  • Change the Mode to Normal
  • Use the Level knob to set the trigger level off the edge of your waveform

New behavior! Now, instead of just showing you whatever, the scope will keep the last image that triggered it on the screen while it waits. You'll see that the indicator in the top-center of the screen will now read Ready instead of Auto. Normal triggering is generally more useful for intermittent events, when you don't know when the next one will happen but you don't want to look at dead time inbetween. But, if you want to see something anyways…

  • Press the Force Trig button (below the level knob) a few times

This lets you demand a refreshed signal now, which can help if you're not sure what's going on but don't want to tweak the trigger settings.

The other options here don't really make sense for this signal, so we'll save them for later.

Characterizing signals

If you'd like to capture an image from the scope using a computer, you can quickly jump to the section on how to Export images here. Taking pictures with your phone is fine for now too.

We're going to be asking you to characterize signals both in these exercises and throughout the quarter during your experiments. So, let's define what that means.

  • What type of waveform (or other thing) is it?
  • What relevant voltages can you characterize it with?
  • What relevant times can you characterize it with?
  • What else is there to know about it?
  • Include a photo (or screenshot, sketch, or plot) of the waveform
    • Annotation is not expected this week, but is generally helpful

For a sine wave, this would be (at a minimum) noting that it is a sine wave, what the amplitude is, if there's an offset (i.e. if the baseline is centered around 0V or something else. For a periodic signal this would be the difference between the maximum and minimum), and what the period is. Basically, enough information that someone would be able to tell if the thing they were looking at was the same or not.

exampletrace.jpg
The first waveform you were looking at. It could be characterized as “A sine wave with a 2.5V amplitude (or 5V peak-to-peak amplitude), no offset, and a frequency of 1 kHz.”

Unknown signals 1 and 2

Now that you've gotten a bit of practice manipulating the scope and measuring things, it's time to move on to practicing with a signal you don't know everything about ahead of time.

  • Connect your UChicago Signal Blackbox™ to channel 1 in place of your function generator
  • Plug in the USB cable to power it on
  • The indicator light will flash through a few colors before turning green
  • Save a photo and characterize the signal
  • Now use the button to toggle to the second waveform
    • The indicator light will turn white while the new signal is loading, and then red when the second waveform is loaded. If its another color, push the button to cycle through options.
  • Save a photo an characterize the signal.

Remember to include your photos and characterizations in your lab report!

More tools

Rise time

Next, disconnect your UChicago Signal Blackbox™ and re-connect the function generator.

Let's look at something a bit different: a square wave! Press the Home button on the function generator and select the Square option from the listing of continuous waves. You can do this either via the touch screen or using the blue right arrow beneath the dial on the function generator to change menus and then turning the dial and using it as a pushbutton.

  • Using the cursors and measurement menu, characterize the frequency & amplitude of the square wave

Unless you've been playing with settings, it should match your sine wave here. However, we might also want to know something about just how “square” that square wave is. Do do that, you'll need to zoom in on the time scale. A lot.

  • Adjust the horizontal scale until the transition between high and low voltages is visible and spans a division or more.

The screen should look something like the following:

A close-up view of a square wave's transition. Note the timescale here

There are any number of metrics you could use here to characterize how long the transition is, but one is to look at the time taken to go from one fraction of the initial value to a fraction of the final value. For electronic signals, 10% - 90% is standard.

  • Using the cursors, measure the time it takes for the voltage to change from 10% above the baseline to 90% of its final value
    • Hint: Since the amplitude should be 5V, 10% of that is 0.5V. For the default settings, this means we would be measuring the time to change from -2V to 2V

You should get something on the order of a few to tens of ns here. You can also do this measurement via the built-in functions.

  • Using the Measure menu, select the Rise Time option

The value you get here is probably pretty unstable, as on this scale there's likely to be some noise on your signal.

  • Use the Acquire button to turn averaging on and observe the result

The utility of averaging in this case is the same as before, but it may not be sufficient to completely stabilize the readings. While doing this measurement I watched the rise time change by more than 10% of the average value. However, it took long enough that I couldn't see any difference visually. That, however, ties nicely into another scope feature we can use.

  • Turn averaging off before you continue

References

Sometimes we want to compare a signal to itself under a differing set of circumstances. In other words, we want to create a Reference image. Thankfully, there's a handy way to do that in the form of a little white button on the scope!

Before we can view a reference, we need to first chose what trace to save. We can do so as follows:

  • Press the Save/Recall button
  • Use the top button or knob to change the Action to Save Waveform
  • Make sure that the Save To destination is Ref
  • Make sure that the source is Ch1 and the To option is RefA
  • Save your trace with the Save softkey

The bottom of the screen should read “Ch1 waveform saved to Ref A” after you do this.

Now that we've saved a waveform, we can recall it using the Ref button.

  • Press the Ref' button (just to the left of Channel 1's vertical scale knob)
  • Use the softkeys to toggle Ref A to On
The scope displaying a saved reference. The Reference button is outlined in pink.

The scope will now draw the saved trace in white, behind any other signals. This is handy to have when you're trying to optimize some difficult to characterize feature by being able to see how it changed relative to a baseline.

  • Watch for a while to see how the transition of the square wave changes with time

There are limits to the reference feature; specifically that you can't make actual measurements with it. It only captures the image, not the underlying voltage & time measurements.

  • Turn the reference off by going to the Refernce menu and toggling it via the softkey

There is another useful tool for comparing signals that's better for sporadic events

Persistence

Since our scope has digitized its data, it is straightforward for it to be able to show us an image of what the trace has been doing in the past. To access this feature, do the following:

  • Press the Utility button (Just above the horizontal controls)
The utility button, outlined in pink, and the display option, outlined in orange.
  • Select the Display option via softkey
  • Find the 'Persist' option's softkey
  • Use the knob to cycle between no persistance, 1,2,5 seconds, or infinite
    • Set the option to Infinite for the moment

This will keep a darkened copy of every trace that's been displayed in the background. This is again only a visual indicator; you can't make measurements based off of the persistent image. But you can do things like use cursors to get a range of values, or estimate the frequency of events

  • Use the cursors to estimate the amount of drift in the start & end of the signal's rise
    • Time cursors and counting boxes is fine here
An example of using time cursors and persist to make a measurement. Here I'm using the voltage division grid to identify when the persistent signal is at $\pm2$ V and placing the time cursors at those locations. In this instance, the fastest transition time is being identified. The pink lines on the screen indicate the intersection points.

To turn persistence off again, use the Utility Menu ⇒ Display option and change the Persist option to off

Unknown signals 3 and 4

Plug the UChicago Signal Blackbox™ again, and toggle to the third waveform (the indicator will be blue for this one)

  • Save a photo and characterize the signal
    • If you're having trouble triggering, try zooming in on the signal more.

Toggle to the fourth waveform (a yellow indicator)

  • Save a photo and characterize the signal
    • If the scope is in Scan mode the automatic measurements won't work. Cursors, however, will.

Exercise 2: Looking at events


Detection of singular events is not as relevant to the electronics course this quarter. If you want practice you can jump to the PHY211 Tutorial page.

Exercise 3 - Exporting data


There are two kinds of data you can export from the 'scope. A *.jpg screenshot of what is currently shown on the screen, and a *.csv file with the voltage vs time data.

The lab computers are already set up so that you can copy a screenshot or data from them by using some Tektronix software. To do so:

  • Connect the USB socket on the back of the scope to a jack on a computer with a cable
  • Open up the Open Choice Desktop program from the desktop
  • Press the Select Instrument button and select whatever option starts with USB
  • Use the Get Screen button to capture a screenshot
    • Use the Waveform Data Capture if you want to pull numerical information from the scope

Alternatively, if you have a USB flash drive, you can plug it into the socket on the front of the scope to save your data. To configure what to save, do the following:

  • Press the Save/Recall button
  • Use the softkeys to set the Action you want.
    • Save All lets you save both an image and the voltage vs time data
    • Save Image gives you exactly what's on the screen when you press the button
    • Save Setup is used for saving all of the scope settings (offsets, zoom levels, trigger settings)
    • Save Waveform you've seen
    • Recall Setup is used for recovering settings you've saved in the past
    • Recall Waveform is an alternative to the Recall button menu
  • You can change the behavior of the Print button here to either save all or save images.
 

Part 3: AC Voltage Division


Okay, now that we're up to speed on using an oscilloscope, let's apply this knowledge to our actual circuit

Applying a sinusoidal input voltage to the voltage divider circuit

Use a BNC-to-paired-banana-plug adapter and two banana cables to connect the Channel 1 output from the function generator to the voltage divider, replacing the DC power supply as shown in Fig. 2.

The BNC connector should slide in gently, and lock when it rotated when it is turned about a quarter of a turn clockwise. The outer conductor of the BNC cable is grounded, and you will need to ensure that the grounded (black) lead from the function generator is connected to the grounded output terminal in the circuit.

Figure 2: An AC voltage divider

Measuring signals with the 10X probe.

Your 10X scope probe attenuates the measured voltage signal to 1/10th of its size.  Thus the signal must be digitally multiplied by a factor of 10 (10X) in order to accurately display the measured voltage at the tip of the probe.  The scope is configured to do so normally, and for this course the 10X probe is suitable for routine measurements.

Why would we do this?

The 10x probe has a compensating capacitor that lets it accurately display signals on a much quicker time scale than would be possible just using wires.  If we were to use only a regular coaxial cable, then we would start to see distortions on a time scale of 10s of nanoseconds; this is enough to distort many digital signals. 

Connect the probe tip to the $V_{out}$ wire on your breadboard, and connect The smaller ground lead (which has an alligator clip) to ground. If you flip these, you'll see little if any signal. 

A 10x probe, ready to be used to measure signals.
Is the output you observe what you’d expect?

Assignments are due 48 hours after the end of lab

This page is adapted from “Flexible Resources for Analog Electronics” by Stetzer and Van De Bogart